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Arriving in Sharm El Sheikh is a reversal of everything seen in Egypt so-far. Its airport is modern, clean and efficient. Its roads like autobahns, its hotels like Oasis's, its Red Sea a magnet for scuba adventure. Tourist Central compared with Cairo and the Nile. Again, no Americans.  At the local pub, River and I share a beer and small talk with the bar-tender....When we introduce ourselves as American; he replies; “Real Americans?” - He hadn't met any and was fascinated. We were always treated this way thru-out Egypt. A pleasant surprise; half expecting to be despised.

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